La Esquina Criolla

Mmm, mmm, morcilla.

Even fresh off the grill, the blood sausage sandwich (just $2.50!) was moist and a little sloppy, especially when wetted down with several spoonfuls of that vegetal sauce (see below, too). For the same price you can choose chorizo, but next time I might cough up $6.50 for an uncommon sandwich option like molleja (sweetbreads) or matambre (stuffed rolled beef).

On my first visit — when I snagged a saucy chicken empanada ($1.25) — I didn't immediately identify the allegiance of this restaurant, but if you look closely (below), the "blue, white, blue" of the lamps above the door signals "Argentina." (The ownership is Uruguayan, too, I've read, which may help explain "Criolla.") Little wonder that the menu gives a nod to appetizers, accompaniments, pastas, Milanesas, and even a little seafood but devotes a full page to the pleasures of the grill. Topping the list: a parrillada completa ($18.90 for one person, $31.90 for two) that includes skirt steak, short ribs, sweetbreads, tripe, kidney, blood sausage, and chorizo.

La Esquina Criolla
94-67 Corona Ave., Elmhurst, Queens
718-699-5579