Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House

Featured ingredient: fennel.

At Lao Bei Fang, they're called hui xiang dumplings (Hwee she-Ong; eight for $3); the counterwoman, who speaks a little English, could describe the ingredient only as a "Chinese vegetable." A web search revealed their identity, and somewhat more: The fennel used here likely isn't the Florence cultivar, known for its enlarged, anise-flavored bulbs, but rather the foliage from a wild, naturalized American cousin that's considered a weed in some parts and that can be used like dill. The herbal notes are very delicate; I wouldn't hide them under hot sauce.

Oh, and the hand-pulled noodles at Lao Bei Fang are highly regarded, too.

Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House
86-08 Whitney Ave. (near Broadway), Elmhurst, Queens
718-639-3996

Comments

[Leeanna]

I miss really good dumplings.

[anon]

This place is so good and dirt cheap at that.