(This venue is closed.) Most of the menu belies the name. So does the setting; there's an ATM tucked in the corner of the seating area, just below a flatscreen silently piping news, trivia, and ads.
But the room has a student café vibe (free Wi-Fi included), and the menu also includes gumbo, a po' boy stuffed with sausage or BBQ shrimp, and a muffuletta (Muff-uh-LOT-uh; $7). This toasty take on the New Orleans sandwich is served on squared-off foccacia and not the classic round loaf, it probably relies on store-bought olive salad, and I can't tell you what's what among the meat and cheese, but it was more satisfying than I had any right to expect.
L'Exquisitus
153 Manhattan Ave. (at 107th St.)
212-280-1145
www.lexquisituscafe.com
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