Madaleine Mae

Simply disappointing.

When I looked in on Madaleine Mae shortly after their opening, I noticed they have a nice selection of beer on tap (though their "rhum cures" receive top billing), and I got a chuckle out of a politically minded menu item, a peel-your-own appetizer of "hot Carolina shrimp on the New York Post." I had high hopes for some straight-on Southern cooking.

Late one chilly morning, several hours too early for shrimp and beer, at least at this latitude, my "classic grits and eggs" ($11.95) was accompanied by two patties of heritage sausage, greens, and a buttermilk biscuit. I made my first pass at the grits (after a minute for a half-dozen photos) and found them so firm (and cheesy, as I remember) that I might have tipped them from the bowl like a flan. No way I could easily fork them through my eggs, which not only lacked seasoning but also were shy of flavor. The sausages had more savor, but those patties and the buttermilk biscuit were stiffs. The greens were fine.

Madaleine Mae
461 Columbus Ave. (at 82nd St.)
212-496-3000