A rapid up-and-down motion with one of those extra-long spoons mixes the ingredients (milk, fountain soda water, and Fox's U-Bet syrup, but no eggs or cream; $1.75) leaving them fizzy and not overblended; note the stipples of syrup where the spoon was withdrawn, and toward the bottom of the glass. The frothy head stood up better than many Bond girls, but 007 might disapprove of Bay Street's hours: On most days this luncheonette shuts down by midafternoon. Then again, he's never been an egg cream man like me.
Bay Street Luncheonette
1189 Bay St. (near Hylan Blvd.), Staten Island
Open most days 5:00 a.m. till 3:00 p.m., Sunday till 1:00 p.m.