Deshi Biryani

Though it's hard to dismiss the namesake rice dishes, solo lunchers have lots of options at this Bangladeshi restaurant.

Payaa, a slow-simmered goat-leg stew ($5.99, like most lunch specials), tops a list largely populated by curries, but you can also choose from the vegetarian sides called vartas. Begon varta ($5.99), named for skin-on, roasted mashed eggplant, take its subtle flavors from chilies, coriander, mustard oil, and a surprising crunch of raw red onion.

Daal, rice or naan, the vegetable of the day, and a salad are standard with the lunch specials. Also typical, the owners told me, is a late-arriving crowd that often takes lunch at 3:00 or dinner at 9:00.

Shown, above and below: payaa; begon varta; an expansive and very meaty beef biryani (special; $10.99).

Deshi Biryani
75-18 37th Ave. (75-76th Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-803-6232
www.deshibiryani.com