"Bobby Fish" ceviche van

Pull right up.

Crossing into Manhattan over the University Heights Bridge, motorists (and the occasional pedestrian) have a slightly different angle, but you get the idea. Bobby has operated a casual seafood restaurant at Ninth Ave. and 206th St. for many years; this even-more-casual operation seems even closer to his heart.

The lineup varies by the day (his regulars have been clamoring for the return of Puerto Rican pulpo, Bobby tells me), but clams on the half-shell and several varieties of ceviche are standard. This scungilli ceviche (a heavy pint; $10), dressed with lemon and hot sauce, added chopped tomato and onion to the plentiful slices of chewy whelk. Most folks take their ceviche to go, but as you can see, there's just a little room to sit, too.

"Bobby Fish" ceviche van
West 207th St. between Ninth and Tenth avenues
Mid-afternoon till sold out