Chip Shop

Like the sign says, they don't do French.

Chip Shop's British-style taters (below; street-fair serving; $2) get a little soft after a splash of malt vinegar, and they can be thick around the middle, but they move faster than you'd think. Hey, get your own!

Previously: Two fat, tender slabs of fish were the centerpiece of my plaice and chips (farther below; $11.50); they rival the version at the venerable Sea Shell, near London's Marylebone Station. If you spring for buttered bread ($1) and chunky, sweeter-than-spicy curry sauce ($1.50), you can also assemble the potato sandwich called a chip butty (thanks for the tip, Dave W!). Have napkins handy.

On other occasions: Cod and chips ($10.50) was quite good, too; Myers sausage and chips ($8.50) was as heavy as you'd expect; wild mushroom shepherd's pie ($11) had a very earthy flavor. For afters, spotted dick with custard ($4.50) was too much like a muffin, without sufficient suet. Of the deep-fried desserts ($3 each), the Twinkie virtually vaporized in the heat, and the Mars bar seemed less chocolatety than it does off the rack; banana with chocolate sauce, if out of place, was satisfying.

Chip Shop
383 Fifth Ave. (at Sixth St.), Park Slope, Brooklyn
718-244-7746
Also at 129 Atlantic Ave. (Clinton-Henry Sts.), Boerum Hill, Brooklyn
718-855-7775
www.ChipShopNYC.com