G. Esposito & Sons Jersey Pork Store

Balls of fun.

The sign in the front window referred to them simply as rice balls, not "arancini" (ah-ron-Chee-nee), the commonly used Sicilian name for these "little oranges." Perhaps it's simply the lack of pretense at this Carroll Gardens stalwart; the countermen are very attentive and friendly, and on a first-name basis with many customers. This curry rice ball ($2.75), "new at Espo's," added the tiniest zip, but next time I'd lean toward one of the classic versions, perhaps the one filled with mozzarella and fresh ricotta.

On another visit, I sampled the soppressata ($15 per pound) — a dry-cured salami, usually all-pork, often ground coarsely to give it a "rustic" interior that complements its gnarly exterior. Tried the spicy, tried the sweet. Tried the spicy, tried the sweet. Ultimately I settled on a billy club of the enticingly sweet soppressata, and was still pinged (gladly) with the occasional black peppercorn.

G. Esposito & Sons Jersey Pork Store
357 Court St. (Union-President Sts.), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
718-875-6863