Pop Master Deluxe

Saturday's randy special doesn't fly on Sunday morning.

Manish water is a robust Jamaican soup whose key ingredient, the head of a billy goat, supposedly imparts a certain vigor. As you've gathered, though, this wasn't the time (I was off to Sunday brunch with friends) or perhaps the place (this pan-Caribbean storefront seemed strongest on baked goods). For a takeaway that I could nibble on the spot and polish off at home, I hemmed and hawed between two starchy sheet "cakes" before settling on this rich coconut-topped version made from cassava (about 3x4 inches; $2). The sweet potato looked mighty fine, too.

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