Bonobo's Vegetarian Restaurant

Even at the height of the Big Apple Barbecue or when the lines are long at Shake Shack, across 23rd St. there's little or no wait for dessert.

Though they might drop a stray comment about a "meatfest," the staff at this vegetarian eatery are also free with samples of such simple delights as banana-cinnamon pudding (top photo; $2.95). Their ice cream custards ($4.95 and up) might be even better; most feature either banana and coconut, alone or in some combination. Then there's the durian.

It's made from the notorious fruit with the looks and heft of a spiky melon and an aroma that's best kept downwind of sensitive noses. (Some liken it to sweat socks, or worse; I think of overripe ricotta.) Cut through the durian's thick rind, if you dare, and you'll uncover four or five pale yellow lobes with the texture of a semisoft, sticky custard. This spoonable version (below; $2.50 for a 2-oz. scoop) is not far removed from the source, and very nearly as potent, each day's batch seems to disappear fast, and rightly so.

Bonobo's also prepares blended drinks, a few of which can be served warm, though since all ingredients are offered "in their natural state," heat is added only by the whirring of the mixer blades. A warm coco chai (bottom photo; 12 fl. oz.; $4.95) blended young coconut water and coconut meat with a masala of Indian spices.

Bonobo's Vegetarian Restaurant
18 East 23rd St. (near Madison Ave.)
212-505-1200
www.bonobosrestaurant.com