Southern Italian home cooking, one nonna at a time.
A short walk from the Staten Island ferry terminal, this wine bar opens its kitchen to a rotating lineup of Italian grandmothers who recreate dishes from their ancestral homes; on my visit the presiding nonna hailed from Agrigento, Sicily. Her spuntino, or snack, menu was introduced by a selection of small plates — including "stuffed" eggplant (below; $7), meatballs in tomato sauce (below; three for $9), and broccoli rape sauteed with garlic (not shown; $7) — though Enoteca Maria's entrees also have a reputation for modest size, by American standards. One exception was a hefty burrata with cherry tomatoes and basil (above; $20); I was glad for help from my tablemates as I plumbed its mozzarella-and-cream depths.
Up and down the menu, flavors were direct, with little nuance. Even tossed with broccoli rape, roasted nuts, and cream, a plate of orecchiette (not shown; $15) was less elaborate than it might sound; atop a filet of tilapia (not shown; $20), a cherry tomato salsa quickly grew tiresome.
Desserts were very large. The lady fingers with nutella and fresh whipped cream, topped with almonds (not shown; $10) really must be shared, but even if you order the almond-topped chocolate pound cake (below; $5), ask for a couple of forks.
Enoteca Maria
27 Hyatt St., Staten Island
718-447-2777
www.EnotecaMaria.com
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