Boca Chica

"Black rice with seafood" is Boca Chica's translation of chofan, a Dominican version of Chinese fried rice, heavy on the soy sauce.

It's often a last home for leftovers, and scooped from the window display, this chofan (small; $4) was a tad dry. But when time permits, there's much more I'd like to try from the extensive menu at this tiny seafood specialist: white snapper ceviche, "fish filet in coconut," maybe even the grouper stuffed with seafood. Timing may be tricky: You'd expect to come across several cooks, with various levels of skill, at a place that's open 24 hours.

Boca Chica
1354 Amsterdam Ave. (125th-126th Sts.)
212-222-6660
Also at 4235 Broadway (near 180th St.)
212-568-0027
Both locations open 24 hours