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Ali's Trinidad Roti Shop

Looks like it's about to pop.

"We can't get good conch right now, so we're not buying," said the counterwoman about my intended; I quickly settled on the sole remaining seafood version, shrimp ($7), filled out with potato like all of Ali's rotis. (Except on request, as I later noted on the menu board. Several customers who followed me asked for theirs sans spuds; I didn't ascertain whether this gets you more of everything else or just a thinner roti.)

The layers of flatbread, which sandwiched a thin spread of smashed split chickpeas, were very pliable. (For a better look, click on the photo of the biteaway view below.) And although the shrimp themselves might recently have sat in the freezer, now they were swimming in a chana — that greenish-brown ooze of curried chickpeas — that was lip-smackingly messy. Call this one a five-napkin roti.

Ali's Trinidad Roti Shop
1267 Fulton St. (Nostrand Ave.-Arlington Pl.)
718-783-0316

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