Dovetail

We're far from the land of the bottomless mimosa.

It's no country for lumberjack breakfasts, either. Dovetail's prix fixe brunch ($28 per person) is a procession of variegated flavors and textures, most presented in portions that offer two or three tastes. Closely following a bread basket that featured muffins, corn bread, and (front and center) focaccia, a canape platter offered each of us a lamb meatball, a cucumber sandwich, a shot glass of cold cauliflower soup, and another of yogurt topped with housemade granola and sliced muscat grape. (The cucumber and cauliflower aren't shown, but the sandwich may soon be easy to spot, once Dovetail introduces afternoon tea.)

In small-bite company, lamb meatloaf (above) and crab Benedict were more than substantial, though even these "main courses" come across as components (tasty components!) that have been fitted together. (The crabmeat, I found only after slicing into those leafy rolls.) Dessert brought another foursome: blueberry cheesecake, a financier, a brownie triangle (not shown), and a shot glass of root beer granita with vanilla ice cream. I've begun to contemplate the prospect of the dinnertime tasting menu.

Dovetail
103 West 77th St. (near Columbus Ave.)
212-362-3800
www.DovetailNYC.com