Leske's Bakery

(This venue is closed.) "The neighborhood has changed," noted the lady behind the counter of this Bay Ridge bakery.

The Norseman still drops anchor in nearby Owl's Head Park each May, but except during the winter holidays, Leske's prepares only a few Scandinavian specialties. There's the yulekage, a raisin-and-citron-studded soft round loaf, and the kringler, a dinner-plate-sized pretzel-twist of a pastry topped with preserves and icing. And yes, there's the (very well assimilated) danish; the apricot number below (about $2.50) was especially buttery. Standard bakery guidelines apply: For best selection, arrive earlier in the day.

Previously: I admit to a weakness for "hardshell" black-and-white cookies, but the Leske's version (about $2) was an unexpectedly gooey pleasure on a fat, spongy base.

Leske's Bakery
7612 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-680-2323
Closed Sunday after 2:30, and all day Monday and Tuesday