Manducatis Rustica

To land a fish panino, you'll need to navigate past the siren song of the desserts.

The dining room (or is it a sitting room?) of this Italian newcomer, the offspring of the long-established, more formal Manducatis on Jackson Ave., features eccentric appointments like a chaise longue and a 1960s-vintage portable TV. They might almost distract you from the simple pleasures of the panini ($6-$8), like grilled bluefish, brushed with olive oil just before it reaches your hands. Your catch of the day may vary; in any event, you'll want to arrive early, before the sandwich selection is "fished out."

The pastries are a big temptation, but children (and a few adults) may find themselves even more taken with the display case of ten housemade gelati, featuring dark chocolate, strawberry, hazelnut, and a superb Sicilian lemon (shown).

Manducatis Rustica
46-31 Vernon Blvd. (near 46th Rd.), Long Island City, Queens
718-937-1312
Closed Monday