Like the few other eateries in Willets Point, the Queens neighborhood best-known for a symbiotic combination of unpaved, potholed streets and auto-repair companies, Master Express relies on an almost exclusively male blue-collar clientele.
Many hail from Ecuador, but the luncheonette's owner hails from Colombia, as does his recipe for albondigas de arroz (platter; $5) — literally, "rice meatballs." They're very moist, loosely knit, and knobbed with bits of egg, bell pepper, and peas.
Master Express Deli & Restaurant
126-96 Willets Point Blvd., Willets Point, Queens
718-424-8207




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