Gyro-seeking commuters come and go, but this informal little restaurant named for the "old town" of Athens also allows time for reminiscing over a carafe of retsina.
The moussaka ($13.50), a smoothly trimmed slab of eggplant, potatoes, ground beef, tomatoes, and cheese, is surmounted by a supremely fluffy baked-on layer of béchamel sauce, as Robert Sietsema of The Village Voice has also observed. In lieu of Greek salad, look for fresh vegetables such as horta (special; $6), dandelion greens with Greek olive oil, accompanied by two thick slices of buttery squash from the owner's garden.
Plaka Restaurant
406 86th St. (at Fourth Ave.), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-680-3056
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