Sparing but not spartan.
In New York, ask for "pizza bianca" — "white pizza" — and usually you'll be handed a cheese-topped, tomato-free slice. But prepared in the traditional Roman style, this airy flatbread is even more minimal: It's flavored only with olive oil (which has settled into the creases), a pinch of rosemary, and sea salt. One of the best light bites in the city.
On other occasions: A square of funghi pizza, including crimini mushrooms, onions, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh thyme, painted an earthy, salty, dense layer on a firm but not overbaked thin crust, and was very good at room temperature, as served; a panino di barbabietola, slim but well-proportioned among beets, arugula, goat cheese, and bread; tomato strecci; a vanilla-cream-filled bombolone.
Sullivan St. Bakery
533 West 47th St. (Tenth-Eleventh Aves.), Manhattan
212-265-5580
Also at 236 Ninth Ave. (24th-25th Sts.)
212-929-5900
www.SullivanStreetBakery.com
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