Sullivan St. Bakery

Sparing but not spartan.

In New York, ask for "pizza bianca" — "white pizza" — and usually you'll be handed a cheese-topped, tomato-free slice. But prepared in the traditional Roman style, this airy flatbread is even more minimal: It's flavored only with olive oil (which has settled into the creases), a pinch of rosemary, and sea salt. One of the best light bites in the city.

On numerous other occasions: A square of funghi pizza, including crimini mushrooms, onions, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh thyme, painted an earthy, salty, dense layer on a firm but not overbaked thin crust. Very good at room temperature, as served. A square of pomodoro (not shown) was plain but sweet. The panini are slim for $6.50, but flavorful ingredients — such as the beets, arugula, and goat cheese in the panino di barbabietola — are well-proportioned, to each another and to the bread.

Sullivan St. Bakery
533 West 47th St. (Tenth-Eleventh Aves.)
(The original Sullivan St. location is now under separate ownership.)
212-265-5580
www.SullivanStreetBakery.com