The Fergus Henderson menu at Momofuku Noodle Bar

Dig in.

It's a hallmark of chef Fergus Henderson's two St. John's restaurants, in London, so when he took a guest turn in David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar one evening, roasted bone marrow with parsley salad (special; $18) was, to no one's surprise, a featured performer. Daubed on slices of toasted peasant bread, the marrow was pinker than usual ("A bit pinker than you like it, sir?" "No matter: Hand it over with all speed"). But dressed with coarse salt and parsley (and, if you like, capers and onion), it had an all-too-unfamiliar unctuous appeal.

Two tender skewers of Niman Ranch grilled chitterlings (special; $15) were a revelation, compared with the chewy curls of boiled pork intestine often ladled out uptown. (Even so, R.I.P, M&G.) The gentle funk is not to everyone's taste, though; a neighbor at the counter left her skewer unfinished. She also noted that the deep-fried rabbit (special; $41) and the crispy pig's tails (special; $18), both of which she kindly let me taste, were underseasoned — which could reflect the cautiousness of a kitchen preparing ten special items for one day only. My little dish of coarse salt, served with the bone marrow, saw extra service.

Also shown below (click on any photo for a better look): a small half of a baked potato with garlic and duck fat (special; $7); and snails, trotter, sausage, and chickpeas, featuring Bev Eggleston pork (special; $24).

I couldn't attend Fergus Henderson's appearance at The Spotted Pig the previous day, but I did catch his visit one year earlier.