"Sunflower," the English translation for the name of this French bistro, shines in the evening, too.
The hanger steak with béarnaise sauce (not shown; $18), sided with an ample heap of thin, salty fries, is the red-meat standard-bearer. Order it at dinner, and you might also consider a seemingly simple vegetable soup (one of several rotating choices; $6.50) that draws ever-deepening flavor from cabbage and potatoes, and an unctuously rich fois gras terrine ($11.50), made in-house, which finds a tart partner in fig chutney with cloves.
50-12 Vernon Blvd. (50th-51st Aves.), Long Island City, Queens