Co.

To no one's surprise, the crust is superb.

If any pie could match the airy-crispy-chewy glory of Jim Lahey's pizza bianca at Sullivan St. Bakery, here's where you'd expect to find it. Of the three I've sampled at Lahey's casual artisanal pizzeria, the margherita (above; $13) and the amalfi (below; $9) are exceptional, thanks also to the up-front flavors of acidic tomato and salty anchovy, respectively; the four quarters of these personal-sized pies are gone all too soon. Though chili heat slowly builds with every bite of the boscaiola (shown below in two views; $17), Co.'s mushroom-heavy pie is less compulsively enjoyable. I'd more readily trade the second half of mine for a couple of slices of your ham-and-cheese, or your Popeye.

Co. also serves toast ($4 each); the slice at bottom is decked out with pinto beans and accented with pepperoncini (and just a touch of anchovy, writes Slice). I'm glad I ordered just one before the arrival of my pies; if you'd lined up a half-dozen toasts in front of me, I would've taken 'em all down. As for the prospect of the chicken-liver toast, don't get me started.

Co.
230 Ninth Ave. (at 24th St.)
212-243-1105 (the phone is answered "Company restaurant," if you wondered)
Open Wednesday through Saturday, dinner only