The burrata atop my appetizer salad ($10) was only a fragment of the whole; compare the artless (if hefty) presentation at Enoteca Maria. But at Tarry Lodge it was ringed by aceto Manodori, a particularly luscious balsamic vinegar that hints at smoky as well as sweet (reportedly, it's also much in favor at Babbo, ten years Tarry Lodge's senior and likewise owned by Joseph Bastianich and Mario Batali). In the company of roasted root vegetables, fresh greens, and the balsamic, the burrata sat splendid as a shard of museum-grade pottery, mounted for a private (and short-lived) showing.
Also at the table: roasted butternut squash soup with pomegranates (not shown; $7); crispy orata with fennel, escarole, and blood oranges ($15) (though the last may have figured only in the sauce; I didn't vigorously pursue an explanation); osso buco alla Milanese with fregula rossa, over couscous ($25); lemon almond cheesecake with lemon curd gelato ($8); and the Tarry Lodge sundae ($8), scoops of dark chocolate, pistachio, and dulce de leche ice cream topped with sour cherries.
18 Mill St. (at Abendroth Ave.), Port Chester, New York