Peyton and Eli used to come in for lunch, said Raymond, the barman, when I made mention of the photo shrine against the wall. At that young age, the boys would have been limited to a Red Creme or a Barq's, but like their quarterback father, Archie, they might well have ordered a roast beef po' boy (small; $9) from the same lady who dressed mine.
In New Orleans, explained Dot Domilise, a sandwich that's "dressed" calls for lettuce, tomato, mayo, and generaly pickles. (Observant readers, especially those particular enough to click on the photo below, will note that Ms. Domilise is applying hot sauce — an addition to a later, fried seafood, sandwich). The bread's light, flaky crust and fluffy crumb are hallmarks of Leidenheimer's, one of the city's best-known bakeries of po' boy loaves, which can stand a good soaking in "debris" — my preference, though not in the Domilise manner. It seemed just their style, though, when Raymond presented me with an 8x10 of the brothers, protected in the folds of the previous day's Times-Picayune.
5240 Annunciation St. (at Bellecastle St.), New Orleans