Like their slice completely covered in ziti, what Broadway Pizza and Pasta calls a "gramma" square ($2.75) hasn't made the printed menu, but it's a regular offering nonetheless, I'm told. Compared with other self-proclaimed grandma pizzas (Fortunata's, Emilio's of Morris Park, Brother's, Tomato-N-Basil, San Marco) this crisp, thin square is entirely sauce free; its principal adornment is plum tomato. A purist effort, but a tasty one, too.
Broadway Pizza and Pasta
192 West 231st St. (Broadway-Bailey Ave.), Kingsbridge, Bronx
718-601-5000





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