The silhouette says "lobster," but my appetite was set to "clam" — specifically fried clams, and ideally clam bellies that might evoke memories of Cape Cod. The belly is the soft, juicy part that tastes of the ocean; it's readily offered here on the half-shell. But Randazzo's, in common with many seafood joints south of New England, only fries up the strips ($7.95), the chewier, occasionally rubbery muscle that holds the belly to the shell. These clam strips were overfried, and the "hot" sauce, underspiced. But everything tastes better when delivered by a friendly server, especially at a picnic table with the ocean breeze blowing your way.
Randazzo's Clam Bar
2017 Emmons Ave. (at 21st St.), Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn