Szechuan Gourmet

One ingredient is an old acquaintance; one is a new friend.

I'm developing an affection for Szechuan Gourmet — now open in the West 50s, with sunnier seating upstairs — that I once reserved for the midtown Grand Sichuan. Of the 150 or so items I haven't tried, the braised eel and the sundried pork belly with leeks are high on my list; there's also a 40-item lunch menu under $10.

Szechuan Gourmet's menu dispenses with elaborate poetic names in favor of straightforward prose, but braised sponge squash with sundried shrimp ($9.95) challenged explanation by the waitstaff. The shrimp, clearly, were kin to the golden gems I've snacked on down South (they're softer when you soak 'em before cooking). But I'd never seen the term "sponge squash" at the market; a senior waiter described it as oblong and knobby, like bitter melon, but with a not-so-bitter flavor. (For that matter, the dish was braised in a cooking liquid that smacked of white wine, and probably sugar, too).

In retrospect (or if I used a wider assortment of shower-care products), I should have identified the loofah squash, which I've seen labeled as Chinese okra and that also takes many other names. It's best when young and tender, as here.

Also shown below: sliced beef tendon with roasted chili vinaigrette ($9.95); ox tongue and tripe ($7.95); spicy cucumber salad ($4.95); dan dan noodles ($3.95); jellyfish salad ($7.95); green beans (with minced pork, by request; $8.95); double-cooked sliced pork belly (a little lean; $11.95); frog with ginger and scallions (bony as ever; $18.95); camphor tea-smoked duck ($14.95); "ma paul tofu" ($8.95; and no, the "fish sticks lady" isn't branching out); "fish filet in spicy chili hot" (likely tilapia, with a muddy flavor; $22.95); lamb with chili pepper (not crispy, but on the dry side; $14.95); deep-fried diced chicken ($10.95).

Szechuan Gourmet
21 West 39th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves.)
212-921-0233
also at 242 West 56th St. (Eighth Ave.-Broadway); 212-265-2226
and 135-15 37th Ave. (Main-Prince Sts.), Flushing, Queens; 718-888-9388

Comments

[Steph]

Ma Paul Tofu! That's hilarious.
I love your site - I always wonder why you don't get more attention than you do...you catalogue NYC essentially. I wish we had half the quality and variety of food here in Providence as you do there.

[avisualperson]

love how the photos start with mostly greens from the veg, and progress to crazy red from the chilis. beautiful gradient!

[casadelun]

Great pictures! I've been wanting to go back again. When I went to the one on 39th street, the owner was really nice.

[Dave Cook]

Thanks! As I mentioned on Twitter on the day of my visit (but it's worth repeating), don't be put off by the downstairs room, which is a bit dowdy — ask for a table upstairs.

[Chris]

went here tonight with a couple friends. It was absolutely outstanding. So glad to have this especially now that Grand Szeschuan on 8th is gone!

Also thanks for writing this blog, which continues to be the most awesome.