That's not Wimpy, hoping to land a sportfish as his hat flies free; sail to Marisco Centro for Dominican-style seafood, not burgers. A pint of fish soup ($5) surrendered gobbets of a yellow-orange root vegetable in a like-colored broth, bits of carrot, onion, and tomato, and hefty chunks of what might have been mero, or white snapper.
Marisco Centro
1490 St. Nicholas Ave. (184th-185th Sts.)
212-740-2000
Also at 1160 Castle Hill Ave. (at Powell Ave.), Bronx
718-792-0500



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