(This post is based on a meal during the restaurant's previous incarnation, as The Clerkenwell.) Red onion marmalade, take one.
During a pre-cinema dinner at this small British-style restaurant, whose windowed entryway once displayed mannequins in housedresses, two or three owners ago, my dining buddy and I first encountered the marmalade in the company of thin toast and a ramekin of "country-style pâté" ($10), adding texture but too sweet a contrast. The marmalade appeared again, de minimis between bun and swiss, in a pair of angus beef sliders ($11) that might be more gratifying scarfed down with a pint (the hour was early) and as a cloying shroud atop the two sausages of my Yorkshire toad-in-the-hole ($13). (For background on the curious name of this dish, see World Wide Words.)
Piled alongside the Angus sliders, fat naked chips were refreshingly salty and quite good. Sticky toffee pudding (in cutaway view; $8), which arrived after all marmalade had been cleared from the table, was even better.
Kupersmith
49 Clinton St. (Stanton-Rivington Sts.)
212-614-3234
www.KupersmithNYC.com
Closed Monday






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