The moistness of the fillings challenges the firmness of the "crispy green plantain crostini."
For a patacón Maracucho (as it's better known) in a full-service setting, to the best of my knowledge the city’s sole option is El Cocotero. A Venezuelan kitchen that turns out full-blown entrees also shows its hand in patacón fillings like carne mechada (above; $8.95), stewed shredded flank steak, and asado negro (below; $8.95), pot roast in a sweet onion-and-red-wine sauce. Fortunately, even when presented on a plate, the patacones are swaddled in a light protective wrap.
Of course there are arepas, the familiar baked white-corn patties, prepared in more than 20 variations. The one time I asked, the cazon (baby shark) had been 86'ed; the filling of my reina pepiada (second photo below; $6.50) reminded me of chicken salad.
Also: a warm glass of cerelac ($5) a "traditional Venezuelan wheat cereal beverage" prepared here from a Nestle powder, had a malty taste.
El Cocotero
228 West 18th St. (Seventh-Eighth Aves.)
212-206-8930
www.Cocotero-Restaurant.com
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