I've never visited Eastern Europe. I know these pastries — one koláč (Cole-ahtch), two koláče (co-Lah-cheh) — from the Czech Independence Day Street Festival. And I've never visited Central Texas, where many Czech Americans make their homes, Kolache Mama got its start, and the koláče roam free, so I can't say how far these pastries have strayed in the wide-open spaces (of the Upper Midwest, too, as well as the Southwest). To me, though, a deep pocket of lemon curd, and streusel, says "danish"; a snug wrap around Ruffino's smoked sausage says "pig-in-a-blanket" ($2.99 each, or two for $5).
Both these pastries were perfectly fine, which is to say, unexceptional, but on a menu with more than 20 sweet, meat, and vegetable varieties, is there really no room for koláče topped with prune, or poppyseeds?
45 East 45th St. (Madison-Vanderbilt Aves.)
Closed after 6:00 and on Sunday