The Breslin's first brunch featured a few little items from guest chef Fergus Henderson.
His anchovy buns (special; three for $9) seemed simple as can be, inflected, perhaps, only by a little olive oil in the buns and a breath of garlic over the fish paste. Elbows on the bar, I nursed them as slowly as I could. (Soon after, the kitchen sent out a stray plate of buns, and the bartender agreed with my entreaty: They shouldn't go to waste.)
Henderson, author of two books on the "nose to tail eating" exalted at his St. John restaurants, in London, has made similar appearances each autumn since 2007 at The Spotted Pig; in 2008 he also called on Momofuku Noodle Bar. I'm a fan, as you can tell, and so Breslin chef April Bloomfield's regular menu will keep for another day. Also shown below: Henderson's kedgeree (special; $16), a stir-up of fish (traditionally, smoked haddock), hardboiled egg, and rice, with green bean chutney; and his (caraway) seed cake (special; $9), served with a glass of madeira.
The Breslin
16 West 29th St. (Broadway )
212-679-1939
www.TheBreslin.com
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