Too bad the tortilla was stiff near to cracking.
Several related Mexican trucks in Queens and, occasionally, Manhattan bear the name El Idolo. In addition to traditional tacos, this Corona outpost serves a taco arabe ($3), in which the tortilla is rolled around grainy, flavorful, chipotle-sauced pork. Rather than a corn tortilla, this Pueblan variation on the top-loaded taco employs a slightly thicker, wheat-flour wrap — introduced, say many stories that seem to spring from the same source, by an Iraqi emigrant in the 1930s.
As I understand it, the tortilla in a taco arabe should be as limber as pita bread, if not as thick; mine unrolled of its own accord. I rolled it right back up and held on tight.
El Idolo
Parked on the south side of Roosevelt Ave. near 104th St., Corona, Queens
(One of several trucks with this name)
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