Indeed, a jazz soundtrack permeates every inch of this pizzeria (and the names of many menu items); a seat at the counter offers a primo view of the pie-making process, too. As at Co., in Chelsea, not all the pies are round; that's also a sign of a hands-on ethos under which special requests receive appropriate attention.
Above and in the first photo below, the Shake Your Moneymaker (12-inch; $10.75) boasted shelled, sliced cherrystone clams, roasted garlic, scallions, and bacon chunks. (I asked for it "white," that is, without a red sauce that might have masked the clams and bacon.) The Kicker (12-inch; $7.75) featured mozzarella, basil, and hot oil infused with garlic cloves and sliced poblanos, on a crust that snapped almost like kindling; Colony is still the master of this style.
Of the greener pies, the Sidewinder (12-inch; $10.75), with garlic, mozzarella, basil, sauteed broccoli rabe, and cherry peppers, was pleasant enough, but Anselmo's Vibrations (12-inch; $9.75) was a delight. It featured warm marinara sauce topped by cool fresh mozzarella, cherry peppers, and arugula, whose leaves cupped a balsamic dressing; this salad-on-a-pizza was as messy to eat by hand as with knife and fork, and I didn't mind in the least. (The name, by the way, is a nod to the Red Hook pizzeria that was the head pizzaiolo's previous base of operations.)
Also shown: Art Blakey's Delectable Drumlets (four for $7.75) were spice-marinated, baked to seal in those juices, and served with a choice of two housemade sauces; bleu cheese was only kind of blue, but Carolina mustard was kickin'. As compared with the so-called dessert pizza, featuring marshmallows and Nutella, that I gave a pass, sciacatta dolce ($5) played it cool. The combination of roasted seedless grapes, light cream, cinnamon, and powdered sugar wasn't overly sweet, especially when set in a foundation of spiced gorgonzola. Not shown: a very good, and typically grainy, ricotta cheesecake ($5).
85 High Ridge Rd., Stamford, Connecticut