And though I didn't sit them side by side, if anything the hamentash from William Greenberg Jr. Desserts ($3.50) was a tad smaller than its opposite number from Teena's Cake Fair (or, for that matter, from the former Gertel's). To its credit, though, the uptown hamentash had a richer, not-so crumbly shell, the sort that bends a bit before it breaks, and the poppy seed filling (click on the photo below for a closer look) was moist and free of bitterness.
William Greenberg Jr. Desserts
1100 Madison Ave. (82nd-83rd Sts.)
212-861-1340
www.WmGreenbergDesserts.com





I did a bit of Googling and it sounds like Teena's supplies baked goods to kosher meat restaurants, which may mean it's a pareve bakery -- no milk or meat involved, and quite a handicap for a hamantasche going up against one of Greenberg's buttery-I-presume ones. When I'm faced with a pareve bakery, I usually steer clear of the butterless cookies and cream-cheeseless rugelach (oh, the humanity!) and get a bag of egg kichel instead.
Posted by: steve koppelman | December 29, 2009 at 12:23 AM
Dear Dave:
I was very surprised to see you write-up this bakery, because typically the food destinations you enlighten us about are not near as pricey.
Waay back in the '80s I patronized the Greenberg store that was, if I recall correctly, near midtown. I stopped buying pastries there because it had just become ridiculously expensive. I thought this place had closed a long time ago.
I went on their website and when I saw $45 for a dozen linzer torts I was astounded. Now, I'm certain that there are people who are willing to pay the price for Greenberg's superb goods, but I'm not one of them.
Your assignment, should you choose to accept it, Mr. Cook, is to find us a bakery (perhaps in Brooklyn) that can compete in quality at half the price or less. I'm sure finding one won't be that difficult.
Posted by: Paul Lewis | December 29, 2009 at 04:44 PM
By email, another reader points out that the "Greenberg bakery is kosher (dairy), which accounts for some of the additional cost."
Posted by: Dave Cook | December 29, 2009 at 09:25 PM
@steve koppelman: Good thinking, even if I get little kick from kichel.
@Paul Lewis: I'm on it. Further reader contributions to the mission are welcome, too; everyone eats, no one gets disavowed.
Posted by: Dave Cook | December 29, 2009 at 09:53 PM