The deli Wellington ($4.95) boasts no beef tenderloin, or pate de fois gras, or duxelles. Inside the familiar puff pastry is a hash of pastrami, corned beef, potatoes, and onions, enough for a big nosh or a small meal. But not a dainty one: The filling is too heavy and moist for eating out of hand. Unless you're carrying your mess kit, be sure to take a fork.
548 Third Ave. (36th-37th Sts.)