The bean jelly in this Qingdao mixed bean jelly ($5) is almost invisible under a julienne of vegetables, and that seems about right. The squarish, thick-cut, glassy green-gray noodles are astonishingly insubstantial: Each time I pressed them between tongue and palate, they disappeared with a squish. All that remained was the vinegary taste of the sauce they swam in.
Lu Xiang Yuan (on the awning, called Hong Shun)
42-87 Main St. (Blossom-Cherry Aves.), Flushing, Queens