When I picked up my pizza with the common three-finger grip — forefinger above the lip, thumb and middle finger below — it cracked like a fresh log on the fire. The center of this white clam pie (large; $13.50) was more pliable, as at thin-crust mecca Joe & Pat's, but at Lee's the lip was brown and burnished, with an almost buttery flavor. Still on my pizza to-eat list: the sausage, or perhaps first the calamari, available in sweet, medium, or hot.
60 Hancock St. (at Garretson Ave.), Dongan Hills, Staten Island
(In the photo, taken from the elevated Staten Island Railroad tracks, it's to the left of the two red doors)