Whatever the auguries, the choice was out of my hands: The tilapia was still being limed up when I arrived. The easier call was a cool slice of causa rellena de atun ($5), fluffy layers of spicy mashed yellow potato (causa) sandwiched around veggie-happy tuna salad. Soon after being served I headed for the gap in the chain-link fence, eating on the go; the festival stereo system was cranked up high, and the causa very nearly quivered on my fork.
Peruvian Independence Fair
Dutch Kills Playground, near 37th Ave. and 27th St., Astoria, Queens