This Ligurian frutti di mare pie ($20.00), a September special from Eataly's wood-burning oven, arrived littered with mussels, clams, squid, and shrimp. It was only a minute's work to liberate bivalve meats from shells; the shrimp, in an unaccustomed contrarian role, required no such attention.
Even without the dead weight, the Neapolitan-style "soft and elastic heart" isn't a load-bearing crust, and small slices still required two hands (no knife and fork for me). The firmness of the crust, however, was much less an issue than the flavor: Despite the puffiness of the cornicione, the "fat lip" that's also traditional to Neapolitan pies, the crust as a whole lacked any noticeable yeasty tang.
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