Circo's (Cheer-cohs) first fired up the oven in 1945, and at least one member of the Pierdipino family, the current owners, has been working here since the mid-60s. Today, though immediate neighbors are much more likely to speak Spanish than Italian, the bakery continues to turn out taralle, pignoli, and biscotti di San Martino for loyal customers. Circo's is also one of the few places in the city to spot the elusive inis (E-nus; $3), engorged with dense ricotta cream. The filling itself is not all that sweet, but the shell, which does appear to have been rolled in the traditional breadcrumbs, is also heavily populated by granulated sugar.
Circo's Pastry Shop
312 Knickerbocker Ave. (at Hart St.), Bushwick, Brooklyn