Unlike versions from peninsular Malaysia, the noodle soup that's native to the coastal city of Kuching, on the island of Borneo, gets its major kick from sambal belancan. That chili-laden toasted shrimp paste stained and spiced Aunt Christina's dense coconut-milk soup base, which was further tweaked with some (unknown to me) combination of lemon grass, garlic, galangal, and the like. Additional sambal, and a sliced calamansi, orbited close by.
This rendition of sarawak laksa (rm 5.50, about US$1.75 at the time) also boasted a tangle of rice noodles topped with prawns, slices of chicken, strips of omelette, and bean sprouts. I would have been happy, however, to make a meal of the rich coconut "gravy" alone.
Inside Kedai Makanan Nam Chun, Lorong Ara Kiri 2, Lucky Garden, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur
Open till early afternoon; closed some Wednesdays
(From a summer 2010 visit)