The armature for this mini-chain's stewed pork and savory cumin lamb "burgers" (above and below, $2.50 and $3) have the dry, stiff poise of an English muffin without the charming nooks and crannies. An additional order, of broad, hand-pulled noodles with cumin-scented lamb (second and third photos below, $6), redeems the bread through mop-up duty.
More good chow: liang pi cold skin noodles ($4), buttressed by chili-soaked chunks of gluten; tiger vegetables ($4.50), a cold salad where cilantro and green onion do battle with jalapeño; and "spicy tingly lamb face salad" ('nuff said; $9.75). Also shown, at the roofline of the Golden Mall: a sign for Xian Famous Foods above faded lettering for a former piano showroom and school.
Xi'an Famous Foods
41-28 Main St. (at 41st Rd., downstairs), inside the Golden Mall, Flushing, Queens
(one of several locations)