Each owes its aroma to an attentive chef cooking over high heat. In the case of the Indian-inspired Malaysian egg noodles called mee goreng ($9), the fragrance, flavor, and overall impression are characteristics of "wok hei," often colorfully translated as the "breath of the wok." Without peeking into Cafe Asean's kitchen, I couldn't compare the cook's stir-fry technique to the exertions I'd seen in Malaysia itself, but a few lightly charred tidbits were tokens of his effort. Overall, a nicely balanced ensemble of ingredients.
117 West 10th St. (Sixth-Greenwich Aves.), New York