I didn't realize my torta would be warmed up and flattened out; perhaps that's Toloache's practice with all its Mexican sandwiches, or perhaps only with tired bread at the end of a long day. In either case the "pepito" — beef brisket complemented by caramelized onions, black beans, and white cheese ($7) — was a propitious choice. I don't like a dried-out torta any more than the next fellow.
83 Maiden Lane (Gold-William Sts.), New York