Durian doesn't play well with others. The spiky husk requires careful handling, to be sure, but the "king of fruits" is most notorious for the pungency of its custardlike flesh. Few shops make durian ice cream, out of concern that the scent will get into everything.
At Sky Ice — which also serves a savory menu prepared by chefs from Chiang Mai — all the tubs in the freezer case are kept tightly lidded. This eliminates the age-old practice of window-shopping for ice cream according to color, but it also greatly reduces unsightly freezer crusts on scooped surfaces, and it safeguards against the blending of flavors that have no business blending. At Sky Ice, a scoop of durian ($3) was its customary creamy, aromatic self, while mangosteen sorbet, which I sampled, was purely and simply mangosteen.
63 Fifth Ave. (at St. Marks Ave.), Park Slope, Brooklyn