As for the logo, which looks like a girl playing dress-up, I can't say whether it's ever been considered a slight by the country's small population of Native Americans or the much larger mestizo community. "Rojita," in Spanish, is the feminine form of "little red"; in the case at hand (12 fl. oz., $1.50), it also signifies a sweet little strawberry soda.
This bright shop sells food and gifts from all across Central America. Previously, I sampled Rio Grande brand dulce de nance (4 oz.; $1.29), from El Salvador. These firm balls of sugared fruit pulp were much darker than the namesake nance; they had a flavor like date paste and were shot through with a half-dozen currant-size seeds.
Centroamerican Deli and Grocery
2601-A Bergenline Ave. (26th-27th Sts.), Union City, New Jersey
201-867-7447





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