Snugged into the curved glass-block atrium of a laundromat, Tri-Thai manages only an abbreviated menu, but chicken gra-praw ($5.75) was amply zinged by basil, chili, and garlic. A few desserts seem to be housemade, off-premises, though the elaborate "ginkgo nut dessert" (cutaway view, $4.50) is imported, I was told. Taro, mounded over sticky rice, is dressed with jujubes, ginkgo nuts, and coconut milk; it's served warm. Also shown: a sign for a nearby business that ran short of quarters.
754 St. Nicholas Ave. (at 148th St., inside Super Plan Laundromat)