At many Latin American restaurants, asking for an helado (eh-Lah-doe) will get you ice cream (the literal translation); Spanish-speaking street vendors might hand you an ice pop. At this decades-old Dominican storefront (which has changed addresses more than once), the texture suggests an ice cream that's less creamy, more like a nieve. (On a hot day, this serving was quick to melt, blurring the visual distinction.)
The flavors are true to their origins — not just the bestselling coconut, but also the pair in my two-scoop cup ($2.75). On top was guineo, or banana; below was a flavor I know better from Washington Heights, especially in winter.
Fabio's Helado de Coco & Tropical Ices
4918 Fourth Ave. (49th-50th Sts.), Sunset Park, Brooklyn